The bakery is only open Friday, Saturday and Sunday, effectively selling out by late mornings. Meanwhile, Cimarusti works 80 hours a week as essentially the only baker. Sugar Moon’s Doggo Treats with pumpkin, coconut oil and cinnamon were just fine straight out of the jar, according to my dog’s critique. The olive oil cake on the other hand was simply superb, delicately sweet and crisp on the outside, yet moist and fruity within, even without the gilding of summery strawberries macerated with thyme.Ĭurried potato and beluga lentil hand pies were a sleeper success, reaching their flaky full spiced potential when warmed through in the oven, as did the fan-favorite poblano-cheddar scones. Mixed berry scones were overwhelmed by a thick lemon icing. The laminated doughs shattered beautiful crumbs everywhere.Ī Scrappy Dawg transforms croissant dough scrap into a delicious mixed breed crescent dog with a snappy beef stick and housemade everything seasoning. From garlicky mushroom croissants with ramp pesto, to asparagus galettes with chile crisp from Vargo Brother Ferments. That galette dough puffs into pastry that’s stunning. “I use their all-purpose flour in the focaccia, and their sifted artisan in the galette dough.” The stone milled organic flour from Ashkum, Illinois, is prized by artisan bakers. “I feel like the reason our focaccia is really good is we use Janie’s Mill flour,” said Cimarusti. Before baking, she drizzles extra virgin olive oil around the pan, the way her grandmother taught her for a nice, crispy crust. “My nonna is 90 years old and still brings like three sheets of focaccia to every family event.”Ĭimarusti does a cold ferment overnight. It’s ringed around with blackened lacquer, intensely flavorful, yet ethereally light.Ī giardiniera focaccia has become a staple for good reason too, and a recent cauliflower focaccia with caramelized onion, honey and chile oil was also outstanding.įocaccia at Sugar Moon, June 10, 2022. Her creative attention to detail has become a signature trait in the origin story behind the baker, turned prizewinning special effects artist, turned bakery owner.Ĭimarusti’s pizza focaccia ranks among the top caramelized crust pizzas around Chicago. “I like baking from frozen to make a nice crispy edge, but keeping the center gooier.” She keeps the dough in the cooler for at least 24 hours, letting it hydrate well, then scoops balls before freezing. “That cookie dough is basically like a three-day process,” Cimarusti said. The sesame seed condiment adds depth and nuttiness. “Because they come in specifically for that cookie.” “People would be really upset,” she said.
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